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New Side Windows

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06 Jul 2021 13:50 #7 by Randy Branson
Replied by Randy Branson on topic New Side Windows
Hello Michael. I got the PMA windows and new PMA top pieces. Now, I'm just trying to build up the courage to start drilling and assembling them. I also went ahead and got the new welt material. I was going to wait on doing the welts but decided I really don't want to go through all of the work to put in new windows and then get them jammed up in the old worn out welts. Jeese, I must be a sadist because it's about 115 degrees in the hangar (maybe lower but feels like that at least). I'm going to go after work today and start disassembling to pull out the old welts. FINGERS CROSSED.

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18 Jun 2021 08:17 - 18 Jun 2021 08:32 #8 by Michael Hainen
Replied by Michael Hainen on topic New Side Windows
Do it yourself. take the chrome windshield bow off by removing the bolts on left and right side of aircraft. I also had a small bolt in the center ot ther rear bow.
I carefully pulled the old glass up and out the cut-out in the front bow, you have to jog it forward gently as you PULL IT up and out, DON'T PUSH the window..
Next I drilled out the rivets on my metal top and bottom edges of each window.
Now the next part is MY OPINION, take it for what it is worth. I ordered replacement clear side windows from WAG-AERO, They take the order and send it off to LP PLASTICS who uses the specs they have on file and they send you the polycarbonate windows. Expect to pay $30 in shipping. The windows that came were oversized and IMHO way too thin. More like the plastic you put over pictures in a picture frame. The stuff is a PITA to work with and shattered easily, and when inserted into the top and bottom frames shattered between the metal edges when riveting. A real waste of time and money. $145 down the drain. NEVER AGAIN.
Solution, went to MENARD's like my IA told me to. They have polycarbonate sheets sized at 20x32 at .060. Priced right also. All I had to do was tape the old windows over the new sheets, mark one long edge and take it down about a 1/2" using a belt sander and 80 grit and smooth all edges and slighty round all corners so as not to hang up on the welts when reinstalling.
As for drilling, LP had all these warnings and blah , blah, bull about buying their special drills. Horse hockey. carefully open the metal ends, clean out any old shattered glass in the frames or the new glass won't go in and seat.
Mark the first hole, drill with a small pilot hole, drill to size rivet you plan to use. First try I used bucked aircraft rivets, too violent for the window unless they are really soft. Cherry pop rivets for me, good enough for Van's and Zeniths. After first is in, mark the rest of the holes and drill pilot holes using the end pieces as your drill guide.. NOTE where the pull handles and stuff go and which is the bottome/inside top/ outside. After riveting and made my rivets even more flush carefully using a hand grinder. the ends of the metal tops and bottoms have to be really smooth and flush at they will be riding in the welt grooves.. Once complete, belt sand all the edges in the areas of the end pieces to make sure you have no snags.
Time to reinstall, lube up the welts with some vaseline. Jog and insert the windows from the top and keeping the palm of one hand firmly on the entry notch area slowly pull and joggle the windows down, DON'T LET A SEVERE BEND OR S-CURVE happen at the entry point or it could crack. The LP stuff blew apart here, not forgiving at all. The thicker stuff was great.
Only thing I would do different is I would have trimmed mine to 31 1/2" long, as when they fully bottom out I have a little metal edge sticking up in the door frame. The old ones use to go below the frame edge slighty, so I figured why bother trimming a perfectly good factory cut edge.
Long and short is the windows are clear, stronger, quieter than the LP product would have been. With the older worn welts, they ride up and down perfectly.
Save the old broken glass for when you do the welt job to hold the welts in place when you glue in the new stuff, if it breaks, who cares.

Now the AP/IA parade can start, but I'm very happy to have new side windows for less than half of what I paid for the other useless polycarbonate..
GO SLOW, MEASURE, SAND, CHECK, A fun 2 day project once I moved on to the thicker material my IA told me use. Tools needed, belt sander, small drills and a hand pop rivet tool. I wasted my time using all the aviation grade tools, riveters etc. Don't over think it.
Next time I replace the side windows I will pay the $200 for new metal top and bottom pieces, my glass has been replaced a few times and the ends are getting beat from repeated drilling out of old rivets. 
Last edit: 18 Jun 2021 08:32 by Michael Hainen. Reason: add comment

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14 Jun 2021 13:28 #9 by Randy Branson
Replied by Randy Branson on topic New Side Windows
Thanks Larry. I found his number and ordered the windows. He's about $7 cheaper per window than Univair, plus shipping is much cheaper.

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14 Jun 2021 11:54 #10 by Larry Snyder
Replied by Larry Snyder on topic New Side Windows
Vernon Gregory (803) 360-2061. No calls after 9

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14 Jun 2021 11:39 #11 by Randy Branson
Replied by Randy Branson on topic New Side Windows
Of course Univair has them...glass only and full make ups. Just I'm not sure what I really need. A call to Vernon for sure.

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14 Jun 2021 09:27 #12 by Larry Snyder
Replied by Larry Snyder on topic New Side Windows
I’ve bought rear windows from Vernon. You will discover that when you get a part from him, it will probably be higher quality and lower price than anywhere else.

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